From time to time our insurance providers ask us to update our customers with current warnings about use of our products.
Please refer to this updated list of Lithium Ion battery warnings, and remember: Better safe than sorry!
1. WARNING: Lithium-ion batteries are volatile. They may burn or explode with improper use. Do not use or charge with non-approved devices. Overuse of vaping apparatus may cause this product to overheat, malfunction, and/or may cause burns.
2. Do not leave this product unattended while charging anytime or overnight, and do not charge it in your vehicle.
3. Keep away from high heat, direct sunlight, cold temperatures, humidity and water. Injury or death can occur.
4. Do not replace batteries with non-approved units.
5. Do not mix new and used batteries or different brands.
6. When charging keep away from flammable areas such as but not limited to wood floors and carpets. Always use a fire resistant container or bag.
7. Always have a fire extinguisher in an event of a fire.
8. If battery or device looks damaged, do not use.
9. Do not expose the battery to direct sunlight.
10. If you witness the battery starting to balloon, swell up, smoke, or become very hot. Immediately disconnect the power to your home or office from the circuit breaker. If a circuit breaker is unavailable, disconnect from outlet. Do not approach the battery for at least 2 hours and make sure that the room is ventilated.
11. Never drop, damage, or tamper with the batteries. If you do, do not use.
12. Never attempt to charge directly from the wall outlet. Always use a surge protector.
13. Do not throw batteries into fire.
14. Do not connect improperly.
15. Do not use any charger other than the one provided to you to charge your device
16. Do not charge batteries unless are specifically labeled as “rechargeable”.
17. Do not carry or store batteries together with a metallic necklace, in your pockets, purse, or anywhere else where they may become exposed to metals.
18. Do not install tanks on mechanical mods, they will explode.
19. Keep away from children and pets. Should a child/pet swallow or chew on a battery, immediately consult a physician and or call your local Poison Control Center.
20. Always turn off your vaping apparatus in between uses.
21. Unplug the charging apparatus in between uses.
22. Please recycle or dispose according to local law.
23. Failure to follow warnings may result in electric shock, fire, burns, property damage, or bodily injury.
Shakespeare once posed the existential question: “To be or not to be?”
Today, we are here to pose an equally important (and serious) question:
To buy clones or not to buy clones?
For those of you who don’t know, “clones” in the vaping world are knock-off mods that claim to be made by certain hardware companies but actually are not. As a result of not being the real deal, they are much cheaper.
Here are some reasons you might buy clones:
Vaporizes your liquid pretty well.
You’re a compulsive rebel without a cause.
Here is why you should NOT buy clones:
Just like it’s immoral and unethical to sell a purse as if it’s Louis Vuitton when it’s in fact not (stealing from the Louis Vuitton name, brand, and overall company), it is immoral and unethical to sell a mod as if it’s Tarsius, for example, when it is in fact NOT made by Tarsius. When you buy a clone/knock-off, you’re participating in a lie that could damage the company being imitated.
On that note, clones can put the real deal out of business. If everyone buys clones, the real hardware companies won’t be able to maintain their businesses, at which point they will no longer be able to innovate the vaping industry. If they don’t have the recourses to keep creating new, top-notch products, the industry will stop growing and their wont even be anything new to make clones of. Your vaping experience will no longer be a priority.
These are the facts, vaper, the decision is yours to make! Every purchase you make is a vote.
Flavor is one of the many joys of vaping. Pastries, custards, beverages, the possibilities for flavor combinations are miraculously endless. But what’s the point of all of that if you can’t taste the amazingness? Here are seven helpful tips for achieving a premium flavor experience:
Higher PG, lower VG
Your liquids are made with Propylene Glycol (PG) and Vegetable Glycerine (VG). Liquids with higher PG and lower VG will yield more flavor. So, for example, if you’re in search of a more flavorful taste, you will want to look for liquids with 70% PG and 30% VG. Keep in mind, higher PG also decreases cloud volume. As PG goes up, VG goes down and therefore directly affects your cloud production. So, if you’re a cloud chaser, high PG isn’t for you.
Single coil equals more flavor, simple as that. For all of you who don’t abide by one sentence answers, the alternative explanation is this: A dual (or even triple or quadruple) coil creates more vapor, way more airflow, and a focus on cloud production. The bigger the cloud, the more the flavor is diffused instead of concentrated and refined. As cloud volume goes up, flavor goes down. So, if you’re interested in more flavor (which you presumably are, as you chose to read this article), you’ll want to sacrifice higher cloud volume in exchange for stronger flavor, and should therefore opt for a single coil build.
Avoid a stale taste by always using fresh cotton. Drip some liquid on your cotton and hit the fire button for a few seconds to let the cotton break in before taking your first inhale. The science behind breaking in your cotton hasn’t been explored in depth yet, but from our experience, it make your overall vaping experience tastier!
Just like cotton, your coils should also be fresh and clean. When coils are overused, they’ll accumulate residue from other juices and begin to degrade, which will get in the way of the new flavor you’re trying to experience.
Clean out your tank
If you’re using a tank, you’ll want to make sure it is cleaned regularly to get rid of old flavors. This will provide you with a more pure and potent flavor experience. We recommend taking your tank apart between flavors and washing it with good old fashioned water. Just make sure that everything is perfectly dried before reassembling and filling with your new flavor!
Pair the right amount of power to the resistance of your atomizer
No matter how clean your set-up is, driving too much power through a coil will ruin the flavor experience. Our advice is to start at lower wattages and gradually push up. If you start too high, you will burn the cotton and/or atomizer, more or less destroying the deliciousness of your liquid. Keep in mind that just because your device is capable of going up to 100 watts, doesn’t mean your juice tastes good at that level.
When using a coil-and-cotton set-up, the aim of the game is to get liquid in contact with the coil. If you use too much cotton, it will absorb the liquid before it can get to the coil. Now, if you don’t use ENOUGH cotton, the liquid won’t be able to reach the coils either. The key is to use just the right amount so that the cotton is touching the coils without overcrowding them.
So, are you ready for a flavor crank-up? Try out these tips and let us know how it goes!
The VaporShark rDNA 40 is one the most popular temperature sensing mods in vaping right now. Inside the rDNA 40 is the comes with a DNA 40d microchip from Evolv, which allows you to use the predictable heating patterns of Nickel (Ni200) wire to estimate temperature to control your vape’s output, instead of relying on wattage and resistance.
What this means for you:
By regulating the temperature, you can keep the device well below the temperatures that cause combustion, which releases toxins that are known to be harmful (formaldehyde, for example).
You will now be able to dial in the flavor nuances that you look for most in a flavor. Crank your flavor intake up or down depending on your mood.
You will be able to control vapor production for bigger or smaller clouds depending on your mood.
You will NEVER burn your cotton, even if the cotton has run dry.
Getting to know your VaporShark rDNA 40 and DNA 40d chip:
Currently, you can only control temperature using nickel coils. If you have a Kanger Subtank you can use KANGER OCC Ni200 Atomizers, which we conveniently sell in a 5-pack! Additionally, Aspire also makes Ni200 coils for the Nautilus and Nautilus Mini tank series. Or, you can use the RTA (Rebuildable Tank Atomizer) head and build your own nickel coil inside. If you’re more into drippers than tanks, you can build your own nickel coils on any dripper set up. For some guidance, watch Rip Tripper build a temperature-sensing coil on his Hana Modz V3, which also utilizes the DNA 40’s temperature-sensing technology.
WARNING: Never use a nickel coil on a mechanical (unregulated) device, or when your rDNA 40 is NOT in temperature-sensing mode. If you do so, the coil will destroy itself and can become toxic. Nobody wants that drama.
To use your rDNA 40 in temperature-sensing mode:
Remove the tank or dripper from the mod to prevent hurting the nickel coil by accident.
Press the fire button five times to lock the device.
Once locked, hold the “+” and “-” buttons simultaneously to enter temperature-sensing mode. At this point, your rDNA 40 will be displaying the word “OFF”.
Press the “-” button once to enter temperature sensing mode at 600 degrees Fahrenheit.
Use the “-” button to set temperature to 380 – 480 degrees, our recommended temperature range.
Press the fire button five times to unlock the device, at which point you’re now in temperature-sensing mode at your set temperature. Your mod will not allow your coils to get any hotter than the setting of your choice, and every inhale you take will be perfectly consistent! You can vape with ease, knowing that you’re being taken care of.
When UNLOCKED, the “+” and “-” buttons control your wattage, which, when temperature sensing, dictates how quickly your vape heats up to your preferred temperature before auto-regulating the temperature of the coil. We recommend adjusting your wattage to our recommended 25 – 30 watts. However, you can go higher if you’d like.
Place your nickel wrapped tank or dripper back on the mod. Press the fire button once for half a second, and your rDNA 40 will now read the resistance of your coil, represented by the Ω symbol.
You are now in temperature-sensing mode! Lock the device and follow the previous steps to find the temperature that is best for you, which will produce the flavor nuances and vapor volume you desire.
To exit temperature-sensing mode when you would like to transfer to a non-nickel tank or dripper:
Click five times to lock. Hold “+” and “-” simultaneously to gain access to temperature adjusting.
Click “+” until you hit 600 degrees.
Press “+” one more time so that the display reads “OFF”.
Press the fire button five times to unlock in normal mode.
So, there you have it, everything you need to know about the VaporShark rDNA 40, also known as your new best friend. Still have questions? Hit us up! We can’t wait for you to share our love for the rDNA 40!
The world of vaping can be a daunting and confusing place. The acronyms. The lingo. The numbers. When I first started, I had no idea what on earth people were saying. I was speaking English, and everyone else was speaking Vapish. Such is the experience of so many new vapers, and it’s a pain that we at CRAFT VAPERY know all too well. Our company was born out of this frustration, and it is our mission to make vaping as simple, accessible, and welcoming as possible.
From scouring the globe testing every single vaping product we can get our hands on so that you don’t have to, to creating simple and informative instructional videos, to writing this handy introductory guide, we sincerely hope that we can help provide new vapers with a much smoother and more enjoyable experience than ever before.
So, here are CRAFT’s ten essentials for new vapers. This is no exhaustive list – just a guide to help you learn the basics. It’s a fuzzy map. It’ll help you navigate. It’ll point you in the right direction. But it won’t steer your ship or wind your sails. To really learn about vaping, you have to set sail. Get yourself a starter kit and blow a big plume. You’ll learn as you go, and we promise to be here to help you every step of the way.
Vaping fluids are generally made up of these parts:
It’s what makes vaping taste good, and not like an ashtray – that is unless you want to vape something flavored like an ashtray.
The FDA deems these Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS). You can find these food flavorings in a variety of normal everyday food products.
PG / VG
Both are non-toxic organic compounds that the FDA has recognized as safe for inhalation, and can be found in a wide range of commercially available products, from food to beverages to pharmaceuticals.
PG, or Propylene Glycol, has been used safely in consumer products for over five decades, including in asthma inhalers.
VG, or Vegetable Glycerine, has many of the same properties and applications as PG, and is 100% natural (as it is completely derived from plant oils and water).
Think of the PG and VG as doing the heavy lifting in vaping. They produce the vapor. They carry the flavor. They are what we vape.
Sometimes producers add water to their fluid to make a flavor a little less strong or a cloud a little less dense.
This is typically food grade nicotine, either extracted from tobacco or made in a lab.
Most vaping fluids on the market – including all of those offered by CRAFT VAPERY – also come in a zero nicotine option.
Essentially every vape or eCig has these basic components:
The battery supplies the electricity to the atomizer.
Just like the wire filament in a light bulb, atomizers trap electricity, creating a controlled heat that vaporizes the liquid without burning it.
Not all vapes use a tank, but 99% of them do. The tank holds a reservoir of fluid in close proximity to the atomizer, so that with the press of a button, the atomizer can vaporize the liquid.
Knowing what strength is right for you is critical to enjoying your vaping experience. For people who aren’t used to vaping or smoking, the higher nicotine liquids can be associated with a light burn or tingle at the back of the throat, or lightheadedness. Nicotine is measured in milligrams and typically comes in 0, 6, 12, and 18mg intervals.
0mg – This contains no nicotine at all.
These fluids are just flavorings, PG/VG, and water.
6mg – This is a light level of nicotine.
This level is generally enjoyed by people who used to smoke only a few cigarettes a day or the casual (read: “only when I drink”) smokers.
12mg – This is a medium level of nicotine.
People who smoked up to a pack a day generally find 12mg most suitable when trying to transition from cigarettes to vaping.
18mg – This a heavy level of nicotine.
Heavy smokers or those who smoked more than a pack a day often start off vaping 18mg fluids.
NOTE: Some nicotine fluid makers provide nicotine strengths up to 36mg. CRAFT VAPERY only sells fluids up to 18mg.
4. Vapor Production
Vapor production is affected by three factors: heat, PG/VG ratios, and air flow.
More voltage translates into more heat, and more heat translates into more vapor.
This becomes more important if you decide to upgrade from a basic starter kit to a more customizable vape mod.
PG / VG
PG and VG have contrasting strengths and weaknesses. PG produces less vapor, but has better flavor retention. On the other hand, VG produces more vapor, but it doesn’t carry flavor as well. Most fluids are 50/50 blends. For more vapor, explore higher VG levels. For more flavor, explore higher PG levels.
All of the heat and PG/VG in the world doesn’t mean anything without airflow. In general, more airflow translates into more vapor, but too much airflow results in wispy vapor clouds. Again, this becomes more important in more advanced, customizable vape mods.
Many starter devices have internal batteries that are not replaceable. In these cases, the only thing you need to worry about is the Milliamp Hours rating (mAh) of the battery. The higher the mAh rating, the longer the battery will last between charges (and the longer it will take to charge).
Many batteries allow you to change the Voltage (Variable Voltage / VV) or the Wattage (Variable Wattage / VW). In general, the higher the voltage / watts, the more vapor that is produced.
If you are using a more advanced vaporizer with a removeable battery, you have to learn a bit more about batteries:
This is the total load the battery can handle. The higher the amp load, the more power the battery can handle.
Most replaceable vape batteries come in 18mm diameter and 3 different lengths: 350 (short), 490 (medium), and 650 (long).
The bigger the battery, typically the larger the mAh and the higher the Amp load. Sometimes size does matter, ladies.
Atomizers come in a variety of formats that vary depending on the tank type and desired function.
These are typically what everyone starts with. They are the cheapest and easiest to use. When one burns out, you simply dispose of it and replace it with a fresh one.
Cartomizers are an older technology than replaceable atomizers and can be more difficult to work with, but they provide better flavor and vapor than many replaceable atomizers. Just like replaceable atomizers, when one burns out, you simply replace it.
These are only recommended for advanced users. They can be rebuilt by the user using Kanthal wire and a variety of wick materials (organic cotton currently being the most popular).
7. Building and Filling Your Tank / Atomizer / Cartomizer
When washing out your device, only use water, and never, ever, ever use soap. To be environmentally friendly with your disposal, pour excess vaping liquid on spent coffee grounds and throw them out in a closed container.
Even though there are multiple independent studies exhibiting no noticeable “secondhand vapor” danger, most people still don’t understand this. As such, it is important to learn to vape respectfully. Don’t blow it in people’s faces. You’re better than that.
10. Vape Life
If you’re transitioning from smoking to vaping, get ready for a big change. Prepare yourself for the following:
You will taste everything again.
Your sense of smell will return.
You will not stink.
You will not have to walk outside every hour for a smoke.
There you have it, our Ten Essentials For New Vapers. You’ll learn more every day, but with these, you’re ready to get started. And remember – we at CRAFT VAPERY are always just a phone call or email away. Vape on, friends.
To learn more about CRAFT VAPERY, please watch the video below:
At CRAFT, we get lots of questions from friends, subscribers, and new customers on the topic of batteries. They want to know which to use, what the differences are, and when they should advance the strength of the battery they’re using. We’ve put together a rich guide to help all levels of vapers. With it, we hope to define the need-to-know variables for vapers of all experience levels. From us, to you, behold BATTERY BOOTCAMP.
Chapter 1 — Beginner’s Bible
If you just started vaping, then chances are you are both elated to be off of analog cigarettes and overwhelmed by the sheer number of choices and variety of devices (and liquids). First and foremost, congrats! You just made an amazing step in your life. Now take a deep breath, have a puff of your first vaporizer and let’s try to make sense of the choices out there and what they offer you as a user.
If you just started using eCigs, then you are probably starting off with something that looks and feels like an analog cigarette. We call these Cig-a-likes and they can be found in a wide variety of brands, styles, colors and flavors. These devices are either disposable (100+ puffs) or rechargeable utilizing a replacement cartridge (or cartomizer filled with nicotine fluid). Cig-a-likes are fairly expensive for what they deliver (disposables sell for between $6-$10 each in Los Angeles) and fairly limited by battery size.
Most vapers move off of Cig-a-likes quickly, or simply start with something a bit more powerful. The most common battery in vaping “starter kits” is known as the eGo. Invented in Shenzhen China, the eGo series of batteries is one of the most copied batteries in the ecig industry. Currently, there are more than 20 companies that produce their own brand of eGo battery (with more popping up each month). These eGo batteries come in a variety of sizes, typically measured by how much charge they can hold (mAh). The smaller eGo batteries are rated as low as 650 mAh and go as high as 1300 mAh. A 650 will last a heavy user about 4-5 hours. The 1300 mAh variety could last as long as two days of heavy use. Physically, the batteries get longer as charge levels go up, but some also get wider (especially the 1300 mAh).
All eGo batteries have a single button that turns the device on and off and that fires the device. All eGo batteries charge via USB, and some varieties also have a pass through charger that can be used while using the device. Additionally, all eGo’s have non-replaceable Li batteries, so when the battery life is exhausted the eGo must be replaced. Most importantly, the eGo has 2 types of threading for tanks: the 510 connection (most popular) and an ‘eGo’ threading which is larger. As a result, the eGo accommodates almost all atomizer and cartomizer tanks. There are several variations on the original eGo as well. The eGo-C and then C Upgrade introduced the notion of different output (Voltage) settings. Eventually the eGo-T introduced a “twist” mechanism to adjust the Voltage output manually.
“Winders” and Variable Voltage (VV) eGo Batteries
Winders are what the eGo-T have now become. These eGo batteries have all of the same characteristics as the standard eGo batteries, except all of them come with a mechanism to change the voltage output of the battery. As you increase voltage, you also increase vapor production and flavor from your nicotine fluids. These devices usually range from 3.2V to 4.8V and are adjusted by a thin rotating dial at the bottom of the battery (hence the term “winder”) or by buttons on the device. Since these devices allow you to control the voltage, they are also referred to as Variable Voltage devices. The eGo Twist is where we recommend vapers start so that they get a good feel for vaping without making a serious investment ($25-35 depending on mAh rating). CRAFT VAPERY only recommends using SMOK Tech, JoyeTech or Innokin branded eGo winders. There are many imitations, but their quality varies dramatically. As with any VV device, we recommend that you start low and slowly increase your voltage to get to the desired vapor production and taste that suits you. If your juice starts to taste bad or burnt, you’ve gone too high.
Advanced Personal Vaporizers (VV)
Now that you have gotten a feeling for adjusting your vape to suit your tastes, the world of Advanced Personal Vaporizers (APV) opens up to you. APV devices take the Variable Voltage theme and kicks it up a bit. Where the “Winders” can go up to 4.8V, most APVs can go as high as 6V. APVs also introduce additional features like the ability to read your tank’s resistance (Ohms), turn the LED lights on and off, count the number of puffs you take, display battery life, etc. Some APVs even interface with your computer or smartphone to help you track your usage. There’s one that even charges your phone for you!
APVs vary widely in size, shape and brand with many varieties coming from China and a few from the Philippines and the US. APV devices range from as low as $60 and as high as $300 and as a general rule increase in quality as the price goes up (there are always exceptions to this). APVs also introduce new ways to charge and power the devices, and many of them use a standard 18mm battery (these come in 18350, 18490, 18500 and 18650 varieties).
Typically APVs are for more advanced vapers. With any VV device, we encourage users to exercise caution. If you are using these devices you probably understand a bit about tanks and atomizers so always make sure you match your APV with the right resistance atomizer and never push the device too high in voltage if your atomizer can’t handle it.
While there are a TON of great VV devices out there, we recommend the ProVari from ProVape. This is regarded as one of the best VV devices available. It’s American made and supported and ProVape has great customer service as well as posted repair rates (if your device breaks down you know exactly how much it will cost to repair it.)
Variable Wattage (VW)
A new class of APV devices has surfaced over the last 2 years. Similar to VV devices, Variable Wattage devices also allow you to change the output of the system by changing the voltage input into the system. The difference is that VV devices only adjust voltage, where VW devices allow you to set the final wattage or power that the system outputs and that then adjusts the voltage (input) automatically.
Very simply, voltage is what you put into the circuit. Wattage is what you get out of the system. Since it’s what you get out that actually does the vaporization, adjusting wattage versus voltage allows for more precision, and ensures that your vape is consistent through the life of the battery.
VW devices are relatively new and the best models are currently being manufactured in China. Innokin and JoyeTech both have VW devices that are reported to be safe and reliable. Because VW devices are essentially always adjusting the voltage to hit the same wattage output, they can drain batteries even more rapidly than VV devices. Most VW devices don’t go above 14W total power output. This is higher than some VV devices, and certainly higher than the eGo batteries.
Now that we have covered Variable Voltage and Variable Wattage devices, there is an even more advanced way of getting “more” from your vaping experience — the world of mods. The term “mod” comes from the modular nature of matching batteries with tanks. Unlike VV and VW devices, mechanical mods have no circuitry and no electronics to regulate or change the current as it passes through the device. Instead, these devices create the simplest mechanical circuit possible and pass along the charge of the battery directly to the atomizer.
With no non-mechanical parts, these devices have less opportunity for malfunction. Since all batteries output 4.2V at maximum charge, all mods put out a maximum of 4.2V. So how is a 4.2V device more “advanced” than one that can range from 3.0 to 6.0V? Mods are usually used with atomizers that have a far lower resistance. Most of the VV and VW devices are designed for use with atomizer resistances >1.0 Ohm. Most mod users are using SUB OHM resistance atomizers, or those that have a resistance less than 1.0 Ohm. To make things more complicated, users have to build these atomizers themselves and they require an understanding of electrical circuits and Ohms law. They also require special tools to build and test them.
Mechanical Mods range from the very cheap ($25) to the very expensive ($200-300, with some very rare ones going for over $2000 a piece). They tend to be ornate and beautiful devices, the most rare of which are produced in small quantities and released as series.
Almost all mods use the 18350-18650 batteries and some have an expandable telescope-like function to accommodate longer batteries or add extension tubes that lengthen the overall device. These devices usually have a single firing button that completes the circuit when pressed. Some have a lock out ring that will keep the firing button from being depressed when it’s not desired. They are truly mechanical in every sense of the word.
So, why are Mechanical Mods the most advanced? When paired with sub-Ohm atomizers, they generate more power than any other device type and therefore produce the most vapor and flavor. Some set-ups can reach 50W+, and that’s a serious circuit not for the faint of heart.
Chapter 2 — Intermediate’s Guide
18MM BATTERIES & mAh
Most mods accept some variety of 18mm batteries. The three most common sizes are 18350, 18490 and 18650. All of these batteries have a strength or capacity, measured in Milliamps per Hour (mAh). This variable measures how long the battery will last between charges. So, the higher the mAh, the longer the battery will last.
AMP LIMIT (“AMPERAGE”)
However, there’s an even more important variable when it comes to batteries for mods, and that’s the “Amp Limit” of the battery. Commonly known as “Amperage,” the Amp Limit is the strength of the circuit as measured in Amperes (Amp).
To understand all of this, we have to go back to Ohm’s Law: V=IR. Voltage (V) = Current (I) * Resistance (R). Most mods are un-regulated, which means they contain no circuitry that conditions the output of the battery. A fully charged battery should output 4.2V and decrease over time as charge (mAh) runs out. So Voltage is fixed by your battery. Since Voltage is fixed, we have to change the equation a bit: I=V/R.
On the other hand, Resistance is a variable, and it varies depending on how you wrap your coils. There are infinite ways to wrap coils. The important thing to remember is that the lower you go in Resistance, the higher the total Current (Amps) will be. So as we all seem to be striving for lower and lower sub-Ohm (below 1.0 Ohms) resistance coils, we are essentially pulling more Current (or power or Amps) out of the circuit. This is why the Amp Limit of your battery is the MOST IMPORTANT FACTOR when it comes to picking a suiting, safe battery for your needs.
For an example, let’s use my current Genesis set-up. I’m running a dual-coil set-up on a Kraken Genesis RBA tank with 26G A-1 Kanthal wire over Ekowool sleeves on stainless steel braided wicks. My resistance is typically .32 Ohms on this set-up. So on a fresh battery with a 4.2V output, here is how my Ohm’s law calculations look:
Resistance: .32 Ohms
Current: 13.2 Amps
Without freaking out about how high the wattage is (Variable Wattage Vapers will be jealous of this number since no VW device can hit that number), the important variable here is the Amperage. So for this set-up, the only safe battery selections are those that can handle a 13-14 Amp load. Since running at the limit is somewhat dangerous, you want to make sure your Amp limit well exceeds your current set-up. If I were to use a 1.0 Ohm coil in the same set-up, my Current would only be 4.2 Amps.
While most mods come with additional tubes to accommodate 350, 490/500, and 650 size batteries, you have to pick a battery that can accommodate the power of the circuit you are creating.
The 18350 size batteries are awesome because they are small, which considerably reduces the size of the mod and tank. These typically come in 700-800 mAh charges. The problem is that most 18350 batteries have a max Amp load of 6.4V. So, if you insist on running an 18350 battery, make sure your resistance is no lower than 0.7 Ohms. That will yield a Current of 6 Amps when the battery is at full charge.
18490/18500 batteries are larger, and have higher mAh ratings. These batteries typically come in ~1100 mAh charge ratings. 490/500 batteries typically come with a Max Amp load from 8.8A to 16.5A depending on the manufacturer. On the low end (8.8A) your lowest safe resistance coil is 0.47 Ohms. On the high end, a 16.4A 18500 battery can get you to 0.25 Ohms at the lowest. So in theory, a good, high Amp rated 18490/18500 battery could be good for my .32 Ohm set-up, it just wont last very long (maybe 2 hours max of fairly heavy use). The most common 490’s are the lower Amp limit (8.8A – 10A) so make sure you know what you have before you use it.
18650 are the largest and typically have the highest rated mAh and Amp limits. This is why the 650 size is typically the battery of choice for sub Ohm vapers. There are also far more choices for 18650 batteries because of this popularity. We have found 18650 batteries with mAh ratings as low as 1500 mAh and as high as 2900 mAh. More importantly, we see 18650 batteries with an Amp limit ranging from 10 Amps up to 30 Amps. The 10A variety would not work for my set-up as I need to hit at least 13A total. The 30A variety however has a theoretical lowest limit of 0.14 Ohms! While we would NEVER recommend going below 0.2 Ohms in theory you could. This is why the Sony 30A 18650 batteries are so popular with sub Ohm vapers. They are reliable, have a high mAh rating (1600-2100) and can handle a 30A load. So they last the longest, and can handle the highest loads and lowest resistance coils.
So what does it all mean? It means that you need to pick a battery that can handle the load you throw at it, or you run the risk of overheating and eventually melting down the battery over time. As batteries are filled with horrible stuff, getting a hand or a face full of the contents of is really bad. So, if you have the right gear, the risk of using these things goes way down. You should always vape with caution, and a huge part of that is making sure your vape set-up can handle what you are throwing at it.
To learn more about CRAFT VAPERY, please watch the video below: